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Foliar feeding is completely different to liquid feeding. It's not only the quantity of water used, but the raw materials/nutrients need to be high quality, and not a product which has a strong chelate, like EDTA, Citrate EDDHA, etc. These products are designed to be applied to the soil, to help prevent nutrient tie-up, they will not be utilized efficiently when applied to the leaf area.

Foliar applied formulations utilize organic compounds to encapsulate nutrients. This process of "Complexing" allows a metal/nutrient to remain soluble and increases its bio-availability. As a result, nutrients gain entry into the leaf/plant more rapidly, and translocate through the plants more efficiently than conventional chelating methods.

Use the finest raw materials possible
Spray a fine mist on to the leaf
Spray volume up to 350li/ha

What is the difference between foliar feeding, and soil liquid feeding?

Using a foliar spray to increase the number of nutrients that your plants receive is a powerful, proven way to enjoy stronger & healthier plants. Yet at the same time, you have probably heard of instances where someone used a foliar spray but only experienced little benefit. Most of these cases are a combination of the ingredients in the spray tank, and how they are applied. If you do not carefully consider every aspect of the proper application of the foliar fertilizer, you probably will not see the results you were hoping for. Fortunately, careful application does not have to involve a lot of time or effort. Through a few small tweaks, you can easily make the most of your foliar spray feeding.

Three key facts which differentiate foliar liquids and liquids designed to be taken up by the plant root system.

The type and quality of the raw material
The total application rate
How the liquid is applied

The type and quality of the raw material.
The quality of the raw material, and how pure it is, will ensure the plants are not damaged when the solution is applied. Food & pharmaceutical grade will be far more efficient, rather than Ag grade which has higher salt index, and therefore more burn potential, this is one example of the difference.

The total application rate.
The ideal foliar application rate should be no more than 350li/ha total spray volume. Low quality materials have difficulty mixing together at low water rates, and can potentially burn the leaf, this is why suppliers of liquids which are not designed to stay on the leaf advise a higher water volume, and suggest the product is lightly watered in, these are NOT foliar products.

Apply Your Spray in a Fine Mist.
Make sure your spray nozzles can deliver the liquid in a very fine mist, covering a greater surface area with smaller droplets which will stay on the leaf. Try to spray when the day temperature is cooler, as more liquid will be absorbed by the plants.

Is your foliar spray pH balanced?

With any leaf applied solution, whether it's a nutrient or fungicide, the efficacy will be much improved if the pH of your foliar spray is slightly acidic, with a pH of around 5.5 - 6.0. This will allow the solution to penetrate the film on the leaf and be absorbed much more easily. Make sure you accurately measure your pH, and make any adjustments that are necessary (product FP-747).

Are our liquid products tank mixable?

Yes, the foliar products will mix together, and the soil products will mix together. Our products have individual strengths, but when mixed together can create a very strong package. It is always advisable to do a jar test to ensure compatibility, as the water used for spraying can influence the chemistry.

Do you have a product to increase soil oxygen?

Yes, Oxy-Rush. Our soils very rarely have the correct % of Oxygen required to support good healthy life in the growing medium. Oxy-Rush is a product which supports all good aeration, and nutritional practices, and provides a vital source of oxygen to help beneficial aerobic bacteria.

What's Black Layer & How to reduce Black Layer?

Black layer is:

Reduced movement of water through the soil
Prolonged rainfall and compaction could be the culprit
Algae have been indicated as the cause of the black layer
The pores become filled with water, and the anaerobic bacteria begin to take over

Black Layer is formed from the reduction of sulphur compounds in low oxygen conditions, these sulphides combine with iron and manganese which are black. The first indication that this layer is developing is a bad smell, like rotten eggs. The lack of oxygen (drowning) can kill the grass roots and the sulphides can be toxic to roots. Therefore, the roots probably die sometime before the black layer becomes visible in the soil.

Be conscious of nutrient applications that can aggravate the process, Nitrogen, Iron, etc.

Reduce Black layer with:

Irrigation practices
Aeration practices
The correct use of wetting agents (use the penetrant Pervade)
Increase the Oxygen, and Humic acid levels (Oxy-Rush & Maxiplex)

How do I use my wetting agent?

Understand whether you want to hold and retain moisture in the top 5-10cm or if you want water to be moved through the root zone to the drainage as fast as possible.

Let's be clear, one product will NOT do both operations! It's a chemical fact!

Use a retention agent (Retain Pro) to reduce the flow of water, as prevention to hydrophobia, and less use of irrigation water.

Use a penetrant (Pervade) to push water though the profile, which will reduce water logged root zones, anaerobic conditions, root die back, and Black Layer.

What is Anthracnose?

Symptoms & Signs
During warm wet weather the tips of the leaves start to discolour and progresses to the sheath; however under high ambient temperatures the hole leaf can yellow simultaneously. Black fruiting bodies can be seen on dead leaves.

Scattered irregular patches start yellow then go red, moving onto a dull brown. There are two types, leaf affected, and basal rot form.

Causes
   • Warm humid temperatures
   • Extended periods of leaf wetness
   • Extremes in soil fertility
   • Anaerobic soil conditions
   • Higher than desirable populations of root feeding nematodes
   • Excess soil moisture, and compaction

Cultural & Prescription Practices
   • Reduce thatch and compaction
   • Try to irrigate more and less often (field capacity) try to refrain from syringing
   • Ensure there is enough soil oxygen, and water moves through the thatch profile quickly. Oxy-Rush & Pervade

Adopt a preventative nutritional approach, by spoon feeding essential strengthening products, foliar and soil calcium, phosphite, internal silicon, potassium, amino acids.

What is Fusarium Blight?

Symptoms & Signs
Leaf lesions first appear as irregularly shaped dark blotches, fading rapidly to a light reddish brown/straw colour. Individual lesions often involve the entire width of a leaf. They eventually produce near circular blighted patches.

Causes
   • Direct and prolonged sunlight can increase the severity
   • High nitrogen
   • Increased soil and thatch moisture
   • Thick dense thatch
   • Heavy morning dews

Cultural & Prescription Practices
   • Reduce thatch and compaction
   • Remove clippings
   • Try to irrigate more and less often (field capacity) try to refrain from syringing
   • Avoid high granular nitrogen applications, which would produce weak cell walls

Adopt a preventative nutritional approach, by spoon feeding essential strengthening products, foliar calcium, phosphite, internal silicon, potassium, amino acids.

Ensure there is enough soil oxygen, and water moves through the thatch profile quickly.